Mouth-watering kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and travelers equally celebrating its superb cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
In a recent announcement, Unesco honored it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – adding it to a prestigious group of international urban centers and igniting hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it joins a international community of more than four hundred urban centers across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The honor "demonstrates its deep-rooted food heritage and lively food ecosystem," as noted by a official from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The honor for this time-honored city is little surprise to its locals or avid food lovers. Many echo the opinion that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO accolade, this adored, bustling, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is now in the spotlight for what has consistently characterized its heart: an unparalleled passion for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a continued discussion from waking up until night in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of the Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its historic wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its succulent kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were created, evolved, and taken to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of food experimentation, blending Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were created. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was devised to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just showcases fresh harvests but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Almost on every corner, there are small establishments and kiosks – little-known treasures that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in kulhads, along with fluffy buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a unpretentious joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also offers special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is precise and involved. The vendor beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some but express concern that their younger generation do not want to learn the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's profound food legacy puts it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – crafted by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is hoped, will encourage more people worldwide to discover these tales and experience the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.
